Ian Orrell's Big Walk Log (now in chronological order)


Ian at John o'Groats on 2 June 2008 at the end of his walk from Land's End.

30th March
Left Manchester Piccadilly on the 8.24 train for Penzance and arrived on time. What was amazing was how far advanced the flowers were down here compared to up north. Rhododendrons were in full bloom, bluebells were out even and daffodils were well and truly over. We hired a car for the week at Penzance and Sue who was accompanying me drove us to the Old Success Inn, (I hope it brings me this) at Sennen Cove. I am writing this in our warm room looking out as the Atlantic rollers come crashing on the beach and the surfers are out in force. It really is picturesque but getting quite wild.

1st April
Up early to take pictures of lifeboat men training. It is a glorious morning and difficult to imagine that it was just two weeks ago that waves were crashing into the window of the room where we sleeping as they were covered with salt and sand.
Drove to Lands End where we were met by two of Sue’s cousins who had driven from Perranporth to see me off. Pete gave me a fluorescent jacket which might come in handy in poor visibility. Set off at 10.10 amidst blue skies after having had my official photo taken. Met Sue in Penzance at about 2.00pm for a bite to eat and drink. I was amazed at the problem Cornwall is having with Japanese knotweed. We left Penzance together to walk along the coastal path to Marazion, Sue then got the bus back to pick up the car whilst I then trudged on to Perranuthnoe. This is a sleepy little hamlet but the Victoria Inn is a superb restaurant. All in all a good start to the walk.

Day 2
Got up latish as it wasn’t going to be too hard a day. The day was grey and unpromising. After about a quarter of an hour the sun burst through and it stayed that way until about 4.00pm. Sue walked with me along the Coastal Path until we reached Prah Sands. Like most coastal paths the scenery is stunning all around you. However I was so busy trying to photograph an old tin mine that I missed seeing a pair of dolphins just past Prah Sands; apparently they were the first that had been seen there for 38 years. Just my luck!
I then tripped up on the path as I was passing this house on the cliff top. No sooner had I got up than a helicopter made an emergency landing at the house I had just passed. What the emergency was I can only surmise – emergency childbirth possibly or the chap had been repairing his gate with a drill perhaps he had an accident but there was frantic waving from the household to the helicopter crew.
Had a cuppa in Porthleven and then walked to Helston. Found there was another chap staying at the B&B whom I had met earlier in the day. Went to Gweek which is at the head of the Helford River for our evening meal.

3rd April
This was another beautiful day. The road out of Helston was boring and busy but after 3 miles I turned off and went past the Poldark Tin mine. It was free site admission but £20 for a tour down the mine! I decided to leave this for another day. The roas I was walking along was broad with very little traffic, bounded on one side with a stream and the other with trees and was a haven for wildlife. I walked along without a care in the world through villages like Portkellis and other weird sounding names.
Eventually I reached Lanner by 2.00pm. The Inn was having extensions done and clearly the builders were not expecting me. As they had dug up most of the courtyard it would be difficult for us to get to the annexe where we would be sleeping. Will it be ready by 6.00pm Leave it with us. So I did. I had already decided that I would walk an extra 5 miles or so to make to morrows walk easier and Sue had gone off by herself for the day. I bought some supplies from the local bakery and continued.
We had originally agreed to meet at Frogpool. I arrived there but no Sue so I tried contacting her but no reply. I saw a fox in a field and this was kind enough to stay still enough for me to photograph it. I rang again – no reply so I left a message saying I would continue to Coldwinds Cross. The same procedure took place there to exactly the same effect except on this occasion I sat down and consumed my supplies from the bakery. It was here that we had our Ah Bissoe moment!
I continued to Bissoe and when I got there left a message with Sue to meet me at the car park by the bridge. The message eventually got through. Sue couldn’t find Bissoe on the map and stopped on the main road at which point two police cars pull up behind her. Good she thinks I‘ll ask them. Out they jump and chase some unfortunate in the garden centre opposite. She drove on in despair. She arrives at Bissoe and to cut a very long story short discovers that the phone reception in this area is abysmal. The problem is that Bissoe is an area and not an exact place and there are 9 bridges and a viaduct in Bissoe. After 1½ hours a tearful Sue said where exactly are you? I thought it is probably easier for me to find her than her to find me at this stage. So Sue told me where she was and I set off along the road. After 10 minutes or so a car pulled up and the driver said “Are you the guy who is walking from Lands End to John o’ Groats?” I said, “Yes”. “Jump in and I’ll reunite you with your wife,” she retorted. She is parked outside my garage.

I shall not forget Bissoe in a hurry.

Day 4
Started at Bissoe and started off on the wrong road! As luck would have it this turned out to be an excellent route and a real godsend because it shortened my journey into Truro.
The day was cool and misty but perfect weather for walking providing you were on the move. Stopped at Truro Cathedral and was amazed that so few had heard of Emmaus. Did receive a donation though from a clergyman’s wife which was kind. Arrived at Bissick Old Mill in Ladock about 3.00pm. This is a marvellous place as we have our own cottage. Walked on a further 5km

Day 5 Ladock - Bodmin
The walk to Bodmin was dull and uninspiring. It started amongst the spoil heaps of china clay near St Austell and you did get some good views from the tops of the North Cornwall coast. Bodmin is a terrible place and the pub we are staying in is very basic but homely. I walked on for another 1½ hours to cut down the walking tomorrow.

6th April Bodmin – Congdon’s Shop
This could be a defining day. It was a day I had been dreading but everything turned out fine except the weather which really was dreadful. Had breakfast by 7.45 and was walking from my overnight stop by 9.15am. The weather was atrocious with snow on the ground. Snow had been forecast and the temperature dropped to 1 or 2C for most of the day. I made another serious map reading error that cost me around 3 miles in distance and over 1 hours lost time. Eventually reached Minions at 2.00pm in a blizzard. Sue was already there and as I entered the tea room door the proprietor said “Good God, it’s Nanook of the North!” Hot soup was consumed with glee. Stayed there for 45 minutes to thaw out and waited whilst the storm abated. Continued in bright sunshine with a biting N. Wind. The walk from Minions through Henwood and Kingsbeare was unintentionally along a lovely narrow ridge road. My route planning seems to have been quite fortuitous so far. Arrived in Congdon’s Shop after 5.00pm which when you consider the detour etc is excellent progress.
Sue leaves tomorrow. Her presence has enabled me to get a good start to this adventure and to provide not only invaluable company but moral support as well. It will be much harder without her. Rang Keith to make arrangements for later.

7th April Congdon’s Shop – Bridestow
Left Sue behind today and so with a heavy heart and even heavier rucksack I continued on my way to Launceston and was there inside 2 hours. Stopped at The Mad Hatter’s Tea Shop for a cup of coffee to be perverse before setting off refreshed. The rest of the journey was fairly dull slog along what used to be the old A30 before the present dual carriageway was built. The highlights of the day:

Arrived with blisters and itching on my right leg. Met an American Chinese lady who was renovating her house in Bridestowe at the pub. She informed me that Janet, my host, had been a nurse.

8th April Bridestowe – Coombe Head
Consulted Janet about the rash that had appeared on my right leg. She consulted her books and the internet and she was convinced it looked like cellulitis. She thought it was serious enough to warrant an emergency visit to her GP in Okehampton, 9 miles away. She arranged an appointment for around 12.00.
I left as soon as I could and went via the Two Castles Trail and on the viaduct the views were quite spectacular. Walking was easy and I maintained a good pace. However I was still 2 miles off Okehampton by 12.00 so I phoned in and they said they would try and have either a nurse or a doctor look at it. In the end after I had got lost trying to find my way around Okehampton it was 1.30 when I finally arrived. The doctor was puzzled and said it could be either cellulitis or ringworm but truthfully she had never seen anything like it before sso she would treat me for both!
Spent a short time in Okehampton which looks an agreeable sort of place before heading of for Higher Coombe Head, a beautiful thatched cottage which is immaculately kept. In the evening I was taken to Sticklepath about a mile away for a meal and then collected once I had finished. Some people really are kind and thoughtful.

9th April Coombe Head – Crediton
My brother, Keith arrived just as I was finishing breakfast to join me on my walk today. This was yet another glorious day and we walked via Sticklepath along some very minor roads, all extremely quiet and delightful until we came to the large metropolis ( a small village) of Spreyton. Now as it was lunchtime we made a bee-line for the pub. This happened to be the Tom Cobley Inn. This establishment has been serving liquor since 1589 and was a beautiful thatched pub. It even had a thatched bar INSIDE! Apparently it was the place where Bill Brewer, Jan Stewer, Peter Gurney, Peter Davy, Dan’ll Whiddon, Harry Hawke, and Uncle Tom Cobley all set off for Widdecombe Fair on that ill-fated day in 1805 when they asked Tom Pearce if they could borrow his old grey mare.
Keith really enjoyed his walk but his ankles were complaining by the time we reached Crediton, a dull and uninteresting place. Unfortunately he had asked Kath, his wife to meet us at the far end of Crediton which was an extra mile of walking. Still its one mile less tomorrow.

10th April Crediton – Tiverton
Keith again accompanied me and we started off from Crediton along country lanes to Thorverton about 8 miles away. We stopped at the village pub for a welcome rest but from here things went rapidly downhill. Firstly I left my walking stick at the pub, I went back to retrieve it, then we discovered that we had gone the wrong way. We could either retrace our steps once more or continue. Retracing meant a longer walk over hills. I made the decision that Keith didn’t like at the time that we would continue as it was the shorter distance.
It then started to rain hard. The first significant rain I had experienced. Keith was equipped for showers but not this. Eventually we arrived at Bickleigh and I decided that a stop was essential to raise spirits and to ease aching limbs and to provide us with some warmth. We found the cafe at the mill and rested awhile. The rain had just about ceased when we restarted along the Exe Valley Way. Remind me not to come along here again. The main track split at one point into a main very muddy tack and a drier but good looking track, so we followed the latter. Oh dear, we very nearly ended up in the river as we had to clamber over fallen trees and climb up mud slopes. Eventually we regained the main track but it took us 2½ hours to cover the final 5 miles. We had agreed to meet Kath at the Canal. We followed all the signs but when it came to us to make a decision either uphill or along the flat we went along the flat – no-one has a canal up a hill. Wrong. We eventually arrived at the car park at 6.35 exhausted after 18 miles of walking. Keith had covered far more than a marathon’s distance of walking (34 miles) in 2 days and he is 7½ years older than me!

Day 11 Tiverton – Beam Bridge
Keith decided enough was enough and opted out this morning but I was joined by Malcolm Macmillan another friend from Clyst. St. Mary. Keith dropped us off at Tiverton and no sooner had we got there than the skies got blacker and blacker and then finally opened with a deluge. We decided to sit this out in the car whilst it abated. After 5 minutes the sun returned and we started walking along the towpath at about 11.00am. We reached the pub at Sampford Peverell for lunch(received another small donation). The canal is really pleasant, 12 miles of water without any locks. The towpath is really well maintained. We left the towpath soon after Burlescombe Bridge and met Keith via minor roads on the A38 at Beam Bridge.
I am in Somerset now. Devon is no more. In the evening met my nephew, David and finalised details of our walk together later in the trip.

16 April
I am now starting to make serious progress in a northerly direction after spending most of the time in Devon and Cornwall going east.
The walk to Tiverton was not a huge success for a number of reasons. All started well with a pleasant 6 mile amble along quiet Devon lanes and we found a good pub for lunch. From this point things generally went downhill. First I left my stick in the pub, retrieved it and then still found we were on the wrong path. We decided to change our course and head for the busier but flatter main road. We then had our first real burst of serious rain which made the going distinctly unpleasant. However help was at hand in the form of a teashop at Bickleigh Mill. Dried and refreshed we then tackled the Exe Valley Way.
We lost the path eary on and very nearly found ourselves in the river but with a little skill and much good fortune we regained the path and plodded on. After more miles of mud we finally arrived at Tiverton. Our day unfortunately wasn't over as it took us another 45 minutes to locate the canal and the parked car. You don't expect to find a canal up a hill !
After this episode I decided that walks along paths would be severely reduced simply because you cannot rely on their state of fitness and consequently you are slowed down enormously.
The next day was spent walking with another friend along this delightful canal from Tiverton to Beam Bridge and in so. doing we walked into Somerset.
From Beam Bridge you can see Wellington's Monument clearly by the days end it was but a blur as I travelled through Wellington and Taunton past Somerset CCC where a certain IT Botham had reigned supreme for many seasons and had experience of what it was like to walk this journey.
My resting place that night was on a farm on the hillside overlooking Taunton.
The night was pitch black and totally silent save ror the noises of the cattle.The stillness was so wonderfully restorative. It also set me wondering on all my journey so far and since I started out I have been through some of the quietest lanes in Devon,Cornwall and Somerset yet I haven't heard a single cuckoo. Why not?
The next day took me across the Somerset Levels to Millfield School in Street. This again proved to be a much longer day than anticipated and this was due partly to the poor weather but mainly due to the crazy stiles which are erected to cross a sub-drain alongside the main King's Sedgemoor Drain. The walk is really peaceful and the birdlife extraordinary. I saw my first swallow of the spring as well as an owl quartering the ground in the late afternoon sun.
The next day's walking was so strenuous that I decided to alter my route and follow the main roads. Got to Wells 8 miles in 2.5hours gasping for a cuppa. Went to the Cathedral coffee shop - enormous queues. I left and as I did the first few heavy drops of rain fell. I quickly found another only to be told there was no room for me even though chairs were free. By now it resembled Noah's Flood outside so I opted to stay put until a break came then I dashed - well hobbled really - to the pub across the square. There was room for me in the Inn at which point Wells started to live up to its name as a torrential downpour hit it. Thunder and lightning and hail --I left to climb the Bath hill in the pouring rain

Best wishes for now
Will finish tomorrow

20 April
By the time I reached the top at 1000 ft the hail was lying. I decided to push on as there was a suitable pub for lunch in a mile or so. Imagine my dismay when I found that it was shut only on Mondays!
Never mind said the licensee if you're quick you'll get to the next one before it shuts at 2.30. Its only 3 miles away! The time then was 2.00 so no chance. This particular day I had decided at the outset that my original planning was far too ambitious and had drastically cut the route at the expense of having a lot of main road walking. Ros, my niece, met me at Hallatrow and I stayed with. her and Paul for the night.
Next day I set off for Bristol and to meet the Emmaus Group there. The Companions were very welcoming and showed me around their shop where they sold not only furniture but fridges, TV's, bikes as well as books.
I then had to get to Frampton Cotterell which I managed by their marvellous cross-city bike/walkway. Another marvellous meal and even better a wonderfully comfortable bed to stretch out my tired legs.
Wednesday saw me cross the Severn Bridge into Wales. So far I've been in 8 counties including. Gwent and Monmouth.
Today is Sunday and I have my tremendous back-up team of Chris and Sylvia Laithwaite to carry the bulk of my load and constantly to supply me with food and drinks. The walking has been unspectacular but one B&B certainly was and I can wholeheartedly recommend it. The room was outstanding, I even had my own private lounge with TV but as it was so far from habitation, they offered to do evening meal. Did I like guinea fowl? Well yes. Excellent. I expected to have my meal by myself as most places insisted - not a bit. Would I like red or white wine. 3 bottles later and the pudding arrived followed by French Brandy and when I recalled a tale of quaffing 16 year old malt, lo and behold an 18 year old malt was put before me. You'll like this then. We drank until we could no longer see across the room as all natural light had long faded and I was seriously worried what the cost of this meal might come to. It had been a marvellous evening with two very interesting people.
The cost for B&B for a single person £30 , the place Pullastone Farm near Acornbury, 5 miles S. of Hereford.
Met up with Keith Hamflett last night and reminisced about trek and the educative qualities of trek compared to D of E Today I am in luxury as I am staying at "The Feathers" in Ludlow.
In 1 week I will be back in Manchester.

2 May
"The Feathers" in Ludlow. This was an amazing experience with its James I Residents Lounge and its own writing room. The latter with its black lacquered wood and brown table and chairs created a strange and eery atmosphere.
My best man Tony turned up to walk with me the following day but fpr tonight it was a chance just to reminisce.
The following day we walked through rural Shropshire through villages like Stanton Lacy, Burley, Bache, The Dinchopes and Strefford. The weather was ideal and the lanes very quiet indeed.
At Bache we came across a magnificently turretted house; straight from a child's story book with views all around and a magnificent kitchen garden. We eventually ended up at Little Stretton, a pretty village surrounded by The Long Mynd and Ragleth Hill. I stayed with someone I had not seen for 20 years so there was much catching up to do.
The walk from Little Stretton to Shrewsbury was delightful as the day turned out to be perfect.
I called in at Leebotwood church as I was making such excellent progress. The church dates back to 1172 and has frescoes on its walls. My map reading at this point let me down and I didn't realise till much later-it cost me at least 2 miles and Chris and Sylvis were waiting for me.
I upped my speed to a good 4 mph. And finally met them for lunch in Dorrington Attempted to look up Ian Ross in Shrewsbury but has moved from the Abbey church. Around here a young girl on bike cycled up and said she thpught what I was doing was spendid and pressed £10 into my hand. Oh for more like her!
Once off the busy A528 from Shrewsbury my route took me along quiet Shropshire lanes on a perfectly sunlit morning. A sunhat was quickly donned and my amble brought me eventually to Clive with its splendid sandstone church and spire that can be seen for miles around being set on a hill. I could not find any link in the church with. Clive of India perhaps there is none? The Shropshire folk are very generous for on passing a house with 5 barking but obviously friendly dogs, their owner asked "Where are you walking to?"I replied "John o Groats"whereupon he immediately invited me into his house for a cup of tea or coffee. We must have talked for 30 minutes about all manner of things especially Emmaus and he is the only person I have met so far who has heard a cuckoo this year. Emmaus were left £20 better off at the end of the cuppa. How refreshing to meet such kind and interested people.
The next day was very different for lots of reasons as I walked from Whitchurch to Higher Burwardsley 1. I discovered a place called Chemistry 2. I was carrying a full pack- the first time for a while.
3. I followed a trail for almost half the day. The scenery was very pleasant especially the sectioin by the canal but those stiles! There were so many that it became too much of a stylish walk and was killing on my knees. I resorted to the road again.!
4. I found a form of transport that is slower than me - the barge. I can appreciate the thrill of chugging along the canals in good weather and operating the many locks- you need patience and time.
5. I had to cross a field with a frisky alpaca in it. Now what is the protocol for this? Horses, cows, sheep, donkeys and even bulls I can cope with but alpacas this was a new experience. As it happened it galloped across to the far stile where it then watched me climb it.
The Peckforton Hills are quite splendid and the view from the top was breathtaking. My overnight stay was at The Pheasant Inn and this inn must surely rank amongst the best for views,accommodation and good food. I can certainly recommend it.
My next night's stay had to be booked because of a serious injury to my friends wife at whose house I was going to stay I opted to. stay in Hartford. It will be the last time.
The walk from The Pheasant to Beeston Castle was delightful but a map reading error on my part forced a change of route on me and I proceeded through Eaton, Little Budworth bordering Oulton Park and finally Whitegates.
On Saturday met up with 4 of my cousins to walk a section from Wincham to Tabley Brpok. After that it was boring main road walking to gain the maximum distance in shortest possible time. I was just feeling quite low when round the corner in Altrincham who should appear but my wife, Sue, my daughter, Helen and her partner, Andrew. My spirits soared; I dumped my rucksack and we walked to Sale. How nice it was though to sleep in ones own bed again!

3 May
I am now over halfway being at Bentham, Sedbergh tomorrow and amazingly Edinburgh in just 9 days time!
Coincidence I passed QEGS playing fields and who should be playing but MGS and my cricket team from last year. What wasn't good some didn't seem to know where Lands End or John o Groats were- its all these foreign holidays!

6 May
Here is my next instalment.
Have actually reached Culgaith now
Ian

Walked to Bury in my new Meindl boots. How comfortable they were and no more blisters! On my rest day it was just so nice to read a paper and sit and have a coffee - real luxuries.
Next day I walked to Holcombe and then onto Holcombe Moor going out via Crowthorn School. The views from the tops were impressive. It was lovely to see that spring on the moors is still well and truly here with the daffodills in full bloom. The first signs of summer were also starting to be seen as skylarks sang their majestic song overhead. What a song from such a small bird; how it lifts the soul.
Eventually reached the hamlet of Belthorn which is on a ridge with spectacular views all around. You could even see Ingleborough!
Next day, Wednesday, I walked from Belthorn to Longridge. On paper this looked a straightforward walk. Always beware the simple and straightforward it has a nasty habit of biting you in the backside! Blackburn was my next place to visit and comes bottom of the league for lack of signposts so I inevitably ended up on the wrong road out of the city. Blackburn is also unique in having so many streets on hills that are 1 in 5 or steeper! The views you can get therefore are quite spectacular.
Revidge is one such place and because I had gone wrong I decided to go via Lammack to get me back on course. This route took me straight past QEGS Blackburn's playing fields. I wondered as it was Wednesday whether MGS might be playing there. My shoulder was hurting so I stopped at the pub next to the ground. Imagine my surprise when a coach with MGS boys on it turned past the pub. I put my rucksack behind the bar and went to see what was happening. Who should be playing cricket but my U14 team from the previous season and Lancashire champions. What a coincidence! I picked up my rucksack and went on my way. At the Top of Ramgreaves, another place with a pub and spectacular views, I got caught in a torrential downpour in what I believe was attractive countryside but I didn't really appreciate it. The walk took me through Ribchester and then 2 miles uphill to Knowle Green where my B&B was. My guide said next to Halls Arms pub the only trouble being that this pub was being rebuilt. Left or right I chose left and came to Knowle Green no sign of B&B. I rang up, no reply, I waited still no reply so I continued downhill until I met someone Oh you need to go back to the crossroads where the pub is and its about the 3rd or 4th house on your left.
45 minutes since I was last at the crossroads I found my B&B!
They were very nice and ran me up to the Newdrop Inn - another pub with a history of hanging in its past. Worthy of a second visit.

The journey from Hawick to Melrose was pleasant especially the section around the Eildon Hills. Melrose itself is a pretty town with its abbey and its square. From Melrose we picked up the Southern Upland Way as we crossed the River Tweed by a most amazing suspension bridge on which you could be fined £2 or imprisoned if 8 or more people were on the bridge at the same time! The Southern Upland Way is an attractive walk with good vistas on either side though today was hazy. Today we met other walkers, a rare sight on this long stroll and we even had afternoon tea in Lauder, a very rare treat but all treats have their downsides and on re- emerging we discovered the weather changed dramatically and was about to storm. We walked as fast as we could towards Oxton but were caught bt it just 20 minutes away. Saw David off on the bus next morning and I continued by journey to Edinburgh. This was in fine weather to start with but as I climbed it became so foggy I had to don my fluorescent workman's jacket for safety. It was so thick I passed within 100m of a windfarm and only saw 2 of its turbines. The other half of the complex was over 400m away and this I never saw or heard. The only other point of real note were the yelloiwhammers and goldfinches seen on the route. I arrived on the outskirts of Edinburgh at 5.30
Next day was 12 May just 6 weeks after I started and I was already in Edinburgh.
It was still very foggy as I completed my journey to the centre of Edinburgh to meet up again with a very dear friend, a late colleague's wife. I had time to spare so visited various libraries and got some of my maps for later in the journey cut and assembled. I also managed to carry out other important shopping. Cleodie, my friend, was in publishing and used to help run the Christian Aid Week Book Sale in Edinburgh whicn now raises over £100,000 during the week. It was a hive of activity whilst I was there. We reminisced and put the world to rights over a Chinese meal and a whiskey.
Tomorrow I had to get to Dunfermline and while my map was OK, Cleodie had a cycle map of Edinburgh with all the cycle paths and ofd course street names. This proved to be invaluable.
So on 13 May I started my final phase of the journey through Scotland.
The cycle way took me through Comely Bank past Scotland's County cricket ground at The Grange and then past the well- endowed Fettes College. After that it meandered through very quiet but wealthy suburbs until we reached the pretty bridge over the river Almond at Cramond Brig. This was a truly tranquil spot and I could have watched the river all day as it stealthily moved towards its final destiny, The Forth. From here the track went at the side of the motorway or other roads but attempts had been made to keep this route as quiet as possible. Eventually as I was coming into Dalmeny, over fields of ripening yellow oil-seed rape came the twin bridges over The Forth. I crossed the road bridge and they were doing major reconstruction work on it.The views of the Rail Bridge from it were stunning and in my eyes it is a far more interesting construction. I followed the same cycle path into Dunfermline and this was not as grim a place as I had expected and my late choice B&B was very good, far better than the alleged FawltyTowers I had attempted to book into. If only English cities would bite the bullet and create interlocking paths in this manner then it would benefit cyclists, walkers and local inhabitants.
The next day was to take me to Yetts o' Muckhart, try spelling this one out to an Indian call operator. What's an apostrophe? They haven't come across these. Yetts means gates but what Muckhart means no-one is sure. I had 3 more miles on my cycle way and the highlight was seeing a deer stuck in a field not knowing how to get out. Eventually it did. The remainder of my jouerney was along the A823 which I thought would be busy. It wasn't so it turned out to be a pleasant stroll past Knockhill, Scotland's only car racing circuit and other attractive countryside. The mountains are getting nearer.
I thought my B&B would be easy to find being The Old Toll House at the junction of two major roads. There are two Old Toll Houses in Yetts and they have messed about with the junction so that you have 2 distinct junctioins. Fortunately I met someone who sorted me out immediately. The B&B was excellent.

Thurs 15 May
I set off for Glenalmond College to stay with a friend of a dear colleague. The road from Yetts took me via Dunning. This is a delightful route by the stream for the first few miles and then through wooded countryside. As one climbed the views became better until just before Dunning the mountains ahead came into view for the first time and some were topped with snow. It does not augur well for the Lairig Ghru.
After 11 miles walking I was suddenly confronted with a 1 in 5 hill at Dalreoch. This wasn't indicated on the map but the view back you got was wonderful. I heard my second cuckoo along the Dunning road and the rest of my journey was accompanied by the tuneful song of yellowhammers. The last 4 miles were again uphill but Glenalmond College was reached and I was greeted by a memeber of staff and a committee of boys interested in what I was doing. This was my first experience of boarding and they treated me superbly. The next morning after chapel I was photographed and sent on my way by their Second Master, the Head being away. I decided to treat myself to the luxury of reading a newspaper for 15 minutes before setting off for Dunkeld to meet my wife and John and Judith Willson. I had barely gone a mile when I was joined by the group who had flown to Edinburgh and then hired a car to meet me. It was great to see them all especially Sue, my wife. As the day was ideal for walking, she walked with me for most of the day. After a wonderful evening's musical entertainment with a group comprising 2 fiddlers, 2 accordionists, a double bass/ piano player we then followed the River Tay in a quite enchanting walk through an avenue of trees by the banks of the tranquil Tay with fly-fishermen up to their waists hoping to catch a really large one. We ended up at Pitlochry where we the whole place was buzzing as it was to be an 81km cycle race the following day and roads were closed off.

Up to 18 May
Today I walked from Knowle Green to Slaidburn and into the heart of Bowland. In the morning the road climbed past the Newdrop even higher to Jeffrey Hill from which you had spectacular views of the Lancashire coast. In olden times they used to hang Papists here - it was a rough area.
The lanes became increasingly quiet and I passed through a hamlet called Cow Ark, "Why is it called this name?" on the way to Newton in Bowland. Along this road one gets splendid views of Pen-y-Ghent.
Blog facts I reached the unofficial halfway point between LE and JOG at Slaidburn.
According to the barman The Parkers Arms in Newton is the most central pub in the UK. Dunsop Bridge is the most central village but doesn't have a pub.
Slaidburn is a mobile phone dead spot but an attractive village with a gory past for the Demdyke witches were once held at the Hark to Bounty pub in the centre of the village.
.My next door neighbour returned me to Slaidburn on the Friday morning at 8.00am Now for those of you unfamiliar with the Slaidburn - Bentham road this is my type of country. It is 12 miles of single track road with passing places over open moorland and the scenery is idyllic. The morning was bright and sunny and I felt in fine fettle for the climbs ahead. Lambs are justbeing born on the moors compared to our southern counterparts where lambing was over. The rough pastures and fells were teeming with wildlife. This morning I did not see the famous Bowland Hen harrier or rarer Marsh harrier nor did I see any owls but I did see buzzards, oystercatchers, curlews and a woodpecker and I heard my very first cuckoo of the spring.
The whole journey was accompanied by skylarks flitting in and out of the heather and in the later stages by lapwings wheeling overhead protecting their nests. The road rises to a height of 486 m or 1580 ft and in winter this poses extra dangers but the views this morning of Morecambe Bay and the Lake District Hills was splendid. A motorist stopped. by me to and commented on the beauty of the scenery - she was from Thirsk and hadn't been along the road before. Once over the tops the scenery becomes more Sutherlandish. For those who love Sutherland you identify with individual hills so you do in N. Yorks.
with Gragareth, Ingleborough. Whernside and Pen-y-Ghent.
4Hours of idyllic walking between two important villages and just 30 cars. That is my type of road.
For the next two days I had the benefit of my wife, Sue, giving me superb back-up and carrying the bulk of my rucker.
The first 2 hours from Bentham thru' Burton in Lonsdale and Cowan Bridge was mundane and amongst busy traffic. It was the Bikers' weekend in Bentham and also the Romany's were on the move up towards Appleby Horse Fair to add to the traffic. I branched off down by-lanes towards Barbon, the lack of significant traffic was immediate. Now one could relax and take in the beauty of this countryside with Middleton Fell starting to impose itself. Barbon Inn was visited for refreshment before continuing down the by lanes and eventually main road into Sedbergh. A wooded path took me past the ornate Ing Mire Hall to my path leading me to Howgill.
The next day the weather had changed and wet gear was donned immediately. The walk at the foot of thr Howgills is I think one of the finest walks. You have spectacular scenery all around, you might have paragliders using the thermals around the mountain tops. Today tho' was too wet for man and beast. Lunch was taken in the car at Old Tebay. As it was light we decided upon afternoon tea in Orton. Sue took my bag on to the top of the steep hill out of Orton. I met 3 cyclists who cycling LEJOG but doing 70 miles per day average. I met Paul my host at the top of the hill, the bag swapped cars and I continued the 3 miles to Crosby Ravensworth where Paul said he would meet me and drive me up their track 0.75 mile. As we arrived at his house the first heavy drops of rain began to fall. It continued for the next 3 hours.
Spent a really pleasant evening with Paul and Jill at his house in Crosby Ravensworth where we were met next morning, Bank Holiday, by Alan McDonald. Today's walk was not too arduous but tomorrows was to be 25 miles! The idea was for Alan to drive his car with Paul to Langwathby about 4 miles past Culgaith, today's destinatination, and then walk with me to Langwathby and drive me back to Culgaith. The only snag was how to get me from Culgaith to Langwathby the following morning. As it was Tuesday there was a bus but if I missed it then my landlady agreed to run me there. This just gives you an inkling of the logistics and organisation required to attempt the smooth and safe running of such a venture. Alan and I had a great walk in pleasant rolling countryside and good weather and were fortunate to see an orange-tip butterfly which I was told were quite rare.
The next morning turned out warm and sunny and I missed the bus but my landlady took pity on me and saved me walking those extra miles again! As it was I had to cover over 21 miles to meet my nephew. David in Brampton. He was to spend the next 4 days walking with me.
This was the longest day mileage I had covered so far so was very glad when all went reasonably smoothly but I wastired next morning. We had a brilliant B&B in Brampton where we had a whole self- contained cottage to ourselves.
The next day was another 20 miles of graft in hot weather in countryside that lacked real features except was very quiet. We saw just 1 pub all day and that was closed and no other shops. The main feature of the day was crossing the Scottish Border at Kershopefoot just south of Newcastleton where again we were fortunate to find an amazing B&B at Sorbietrees. This is probably the best so far. We also discovered that there was another alternative route to tomorrow's walk and that we could use sections of the old Waverley railway line.
This in the event proved useful.

18 May
Tomorrow, Monday, will see 3 ex-MGS members of staff link up on the Lands End-John o' Groats walk in aid of Emmaus. They are Ian Orrell, John Willson and Alan MacDonald and thay are about to walk through the difficult terrain of the Cairngorms in particular Glen Tilt and the Lairig Ghru finishing in Aviemore.
Ian has so far raised £3700 but would like to reach his target of £6000.

Today saw Sue and Judith depart but not before Sue had walked with me to Killiecrankie Visitors Centre. Alan McDonald joined us all at Blair Atholl Caravan Park and campsite in preparation for tenting it through the Cairngorms. I switched over all my gear into a larger rucksack provided by Alan and became very selective in which items were going to be necessary. This was to be my first taste of camping for 24 years and it was going to be hard. One simple rule I learnt very early on was that although you need lots of liquid always limit it very strictly before you get into your bag.

The Cairngorms
All 3 of us set off with heavy packs to walk along Glen Tilt to Bynack Lodge - some 16 miles all uphill. The day started sunny and the first part was really stunning with the River Tilt accompanying us. Gradually the terrain became more bleak and desolate. We saw several interesting birds, grey wagtails, dippers and a real rarity a dotterel. We disturbed a huge herd of red deer which fled to safer ground.
We arrived at Bynack at 5.30pm - it provided excellent shelter but by now it was getting cold. We put on a brew immediately. Alan was the chef, John was the navigator and my job was to stay on my feet and get from A to B. At the same site was another camper who had his dog with him - his dog even had his own load to carry!
We had a good meal but because it was so cold we were in our bags by 8.30 It was a cold night but I slept quite well.
Breakfast was 2 steaming mugs of tea and a bowl of Dorset cereal. Today was to provide possibly the highlight of the whole trip as we came across a river where there was no bridge. An unscheduled river crossing is always spectacular. We had to decide how we wewere to cross it. Finally we decided that it could be forded safely with "Teevers"- strong open topped sandals.
We had two pairs between 3 and as our feet are roughly the same size it was merely a question of getting 2 across and then 1 coming back for the other, me.
The water was freezing.
We arrived at our campsite about 2 miles past the Corrour Bothy at 4.15pm. By 7.00pm we had not only eaten but it was cold and it was starting to rain. We got into our bags. Tomorrow would be the most arduous part of the whole trip. Today's had been very easy by comparison.
Awoke at 7.00 to clear blue skies and the sun shining on Braeriach. Cloud soon started bubbling up but it was of no major significance. We had the usual breakfast and broke camp at 9.00am to continue the final ascent of the Lairig Ghru. This final passage is less well-marked, narrower and passes over boulder fields and snow patches to reach the final height of 835m or 2756ft. The climb wasn't without incident because after crossing one snow patch and being extra careful I put my foot on a very large and stable- looking stone only for it to tip violently and throw me off balance. Fortunately I turned and landed on my back so that the rucksack took the full impact of the fall. I looked like a beached whale but I suffered nothing more than a slight graze on my shin. I was very fortunate and it just proves you can never take anything for granted in the mountains. The journey down to Aviemore was very hard on my knees but through some beautiful scenery. We lunched by the Chalamain Gap Steps in an idyllic spot by a stream. With the sun now fully out and with the breeze having dropped - this was perfect walking weather. The route continued down through the old Scottish pines of the Rothiemurchus Forest and down to our wooded but midge-free campsite at Coylumbridge. We picked up Alan's car and went into Aviemore to find food. We discovered an Italian restaurant that was offering an "Eat as much as you can" menu. We took them on and it also happened to be the Man U - Chelsea match on TV so that gave us breathing space between courses! After 2 hours we gave in! We then crashed out in our tents and slept very well even on the hard surface.
As we were now 1 day ahead of schedule, Alan decided he would go home today if we could find a B&B somewhere. nearby. We found one in Boat of Garten from where we visited the Osprey Centre. Boat of Garten is an interesting place for the traveller as it has not only places of interest but an outstanding Post Office that sells a wide range of items and services. It won the All Scotland small Post Office award for 2007. BoG also has an outstanding restaurant called Andersons and we can personally recommend it.
Next day we walked to Tomatin. Again we had good weather to climb up to Slochd Summit 401m. Stopped at the Post Office and General stores in Tomatin to find that it was shutting after 39 years on 31st May because people weren't using it any more. Nobody else wanted to take it on. People had started shopping online and that was seriously affecting Highland shops. Our B&B was through the grounds of Tomatin distillery. It was full.
It was here we met the 5 fishermen from Falkirk who were real rough diamonds. We got talking about the walk about Emmaus. Its a pity I've got no money on me he said. He disappeared for a fag. About 10 minutes later he returned and put £50 on the table - from the 5 fishermen of Falkirk he said. My mouth fell open. Some people are just incredibly kind.
The day had started well and it continued in this vein. It was John's birthday and the gorse seemed yellower and more vivid the more we walked. We passed the place where we had made an emergency camp 28 years ago and the farmer had thought we were sheep rustlers! We missed the path at Moy but managed to relocate it a little further on and this took us onto one of General Wade's roads. These can be difficult to follow but this one was OK once we had negotiated the changes the Forestry Commission had made. It was a quite splendid walk through the forests emerging through the broom and gorse at a small community called Faillie. We stopped on the bridge to have lunch. A man walked up and enquired where we were walking to and what was Emmaus. We told him. When he heard I had walked from Lands End he pressed a fiver in my hand and shouted to his wife "This man has walked from Lands End whereupon other people turned up and a little boy was sent to his gran's and in no time I had collected £15 from people who were truly kind and to be truthful we could have stayed longer as we were offered hot drinks as well but we had to meet people in Inverness. At this point the road became difficult to follow for a quarter of a mile or so. It then met a road and the clearing in the forest on the other side was obvious. The path was dead straight and when it emerged gave rise to stunning panoramic views of the Highlands ahead. The path was literally downhill into Inverness from here all 4 miles of it. We arrived at the station at 4.00pm where we were met by Ian Souter, our host for the evening, and he whisked us off to Gordonstoun School to meet his wife Georgie. It had been Parent's Day at Gordonstoun and we were given a tour of the college and grounds which are impressive. But in the evening we went back to their house and spent a wonderful time chatting and reminiscing. They actually have red squirrels and deer in their small back garden! It is a tranquil spot outside Nairn. The next day they ran us both back into Inverness so we could walk to Evanton.

We left Inverness past Caley Thistle FC's ground and over the Kessock bridge that takes one across the Moray Firth onto the Black Isle. This was Day 55 and it is worth noting here that I have still not had a full day of rain since I started. Today was another fine day with plenty of blue sky but with an abundance of white cloud as well. We walked down to North Kessock, a beautiful little village on the Beauly Firth and with its houses looking south over The Aird and The Farrars some of which were covered in snow. We then walked through the Black Isle via Munlochy and quiet B roads. Much of this walking was gradually uphill until descending rapidly onto the bridge over the Cromarty Firth. This is a much longer and flatter bridge and took us about 30 minutes to cross. On the far side we saw seals basking and John entered collecting mode spying many usable washers at the roadside. This area is a very good one apparently for seeing ospreys and honey buzzards but we saw neither. Sue arrived at 8.00pm and we all sat down to a superb evening meal of smoked venison, wild salmon, almond tart and coffee in very peaceful surroundings overlooking the loch. We booked in again for our return home.
With Sue now being with us we had the luxury of a back-up team and car for the first time for weeks. This was also to be John's last day and we had to get to Ardgay so he could get the 18.39 train. That meant we had to walk 21 miles by that time or Sue would have to run him those miles we hadn't covered. The day dawned fine and it turned out to be one of those perfect days for walking. Although the road we were following was the main road to Bonar Bridge, it was quiet and pleasant walking. We heard a cuckoo and were escorted by yellowhammers for most of the day. In the afternoon we met 2 elderly cyclists who were travelling from Durness to Dover! They had done Lands End - John o Groats the previouis year! We met them at Struie which is a magnificent viewpoint and today we could see quite clearly Ben Kloibreck, 28 miles away and Ben More Assynt with snow on it. You could see easily the Dornoch Firth but could also make out the East caost of Scotland.
A more unusual sight was a speed limit restriction for 19mph on some Scottish Energy land to a windfarm! EEC regulations? Is it 30kph converted? Are speedometers that accurate?
We eventially reached Ardgay at 17.15 so we continued to Bonar Bridge where we had a celebratory drink in the Bridge Hotel. This is quite a sad-looking place these days as the A9 has diverted much trade away from Bonar Bridge. We saw John off on hos train on time but worse was to follow because we discovered that most of the good eating places in Bonar Bridge shut on Monday - it was Monday. We drove to Lairg.

27 May
This was to be a short and relaxing day - only 11 miles! However the weather looked as though it was about to change and the next day was 21 miles so I decided to equalise the two days especially as today was fine. This proved to be wise especially after the incident in the afternoon when I stumbled on the rough and very deep edge to the tarmac and I pitched sideways grazing my hand but really bruising my ribs. I was badly shaken but I was fortunate it was only bruising. I met Sue in Lairg and got rid of my rucksack for the remainder of the day. Once the road split between Ullapool and Alltnaharra the character of the road and countryside changed completely. The road changed to single track with places and the traffic density diminished. Homes became more scattered and a drained peatland type landscape became the norm. This is Sutherland in all its barrenness. I walked about 5 miles before Sue picked me up and returned me to Lairg.
The next day started dull and actually got wetter. I agreed to meet Sue at the Crask Inn which is just about the only house in the valley before Alltnaharra 18 miles away. About 1 mile before the Crask it started to rain and I donned my full Gortex. By the time I reached the Crask it was raining heavily. Fortunately it was open and 2 motor bikers had had the same idea as me except they were going to stay there the night. We initially meant to stay about 40 minutes but 21/2hrs later after some superb sandwiches and real genuine Highland hospitality we left. His wife had just come back from Alness. Now Alness is 42 miles away but it was the nearest swimming pool and she enjoys swimming. To achieve this she has to cycle about 7 miles in all weathers before getting the bus. She then goes swimming. If you don't make this effort you would never have any form of social life and this is so important. The bus services are vital for some people.
As I journeyed down the valley to Alltnaharra the wind increased in intensity making walking very unpleasant for a while. Arrived at Alltnaharra at 5.20 and passed the Alltnaharra Hotel which is closed and up for sale at the moment.
The B&B where we stayed was a haven for wildlife with siskins in abundance and wild deer coming into the garden whilst we were having our evening meal.

Thurs 29 May Day 59
I started out later than intended on a cloudy and damp morning with the threat of rain in the air and low cloud on the mountains. This was typical Sutherland weather and just as typically it meant nothing and by 1.00 it was bright sunshine for the rest of the day. This was to be my final valley walk and it was the finest walking down Strathnaver with Loch Naver on my right hand side for 9 miles and then followed by the River Naver for the remaining 12 miles. It was fitting also that after complaining about "What has happened to the cuckoo this year?" that I should be escorted and serenaded all day by cuckoos. Indeed I even saw 2 or was it the same one twice miles apart?
Stopped for lunch after I had walked about 12 miles at Syre and studied the place where much of the 'clearances' had taken place centuries before so that landowners could graze sheep. This has been a fantastically enjoyable walk with so much bird life and so many interesting features. I must return again soon and in May. The depth of colour to the broom and the gorse is truly amazing and there are still banks of primroses in full bloom.
Our B&B was in Rhitongue which involved a drive towards Durness along the coast. It had wonderful views from the upper floor but these were nothing compared to the views we got of Ben Loyal and Ben Hope from the Causeway across the bay at Tongue. It was already 8.00pm when we went for our meal and the views were equally breathtaking after 10.00pm - it was one of those nights when the light just never seems to fade completely.
It will be a day I will always remember.

Day 60
This was not a day of high drama but it did involve quite a lot of short uphill rises to the extent that I climbed about 2000ft that day just wallking along the road. It did give you particular good views of the coast at Bettyhill and from a viewpoint beyond one could see the hills Foinavon and Arkle, just in case people thought they might be racehorses!
Arrived at our Hotel in Melvich where wew were to stay the next 2 days. This has very recently been refurbished and has plenty of potential. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay as seemingly did all the other guests.

Saturday 31st May
The day started misty and I had to wear my reflective vest for only the second time. I saw very little until I got close to Thurso though Reay looked a nice and tidy looking village. It became so misty at timew that you could only see about 50 yds or so from the car. This was highlighted by our lunchtime stop - a pull-in to a Business Technology Park. We finished lunch, the sun came out and as I was about to start off on my walk I suddenly realised we had been lunching beneath 6 wind turbines. We had neither seen them nor heard them. Only 2 were working.
Dounreay looks a sad place these days.
It is in the process of dismantlement but how long this will take is uncertain.

Sun 1st June
Another cloudy but rain-free day. Thurso is a dreary place and needs wakening up. The road walking along the North Coast isn't as spectacular as I had hoped as the road is too far away from the sea most of the time. There was a long stretch of sand after Castletown. We decided to walk along the mile or so of golden sand. However the beach turned out to be contaminated with sewage in parts so we got off quickly.
Walked to Dunnet Head in the afternoon, the most northerly point on the British mainland. It is a remote place with marvellous views of the Orkneys and typical of this place I came across one of those elusive and lonesome birds - a loon or diver but what type one couldn't really tell without binoculars.
The lighthouse on the cliff top at Dunnet Head was built by a relative of RL Stevenson and when the weather is really bad the panes of glass in the lantern tower are frequently broken by stones churned up by the sea.
Tomorrow, I will reach my goal of John o' Groats as it is meant to rain hard on Tuesday.

Monday 2nd June - Final Day
The day started cloudy and misty but dry once more. This is Day 63 and I haven't had a full day of rain nor seen a single midge. Surely this is a record!
The road to John o' Groats was basically flat with good views out to Stroma and the Orkneys. The cuckoo serenaded me yet again during the final day and I saw a roe deer close to Gills.
Sue met me at John o' Groats and we walked the last quarter of a mile to the Hotel together. The end is a real disappointment. There is no definite finishing line and you just ramble to a stop. Even the guy who takes official photos seemed a little reluctant. All in all JoG has an air of depression of it even though the sun came out.
I then felt a real sense of achievement.
It isn't every day that a 60 year old walks the length of the country. I had lost over a stone in weight and I felt very fit though my knees complained constantly after each days walk.

We celebrated by having a cream tea in a delightful craft shop cum tea room.

So here endeth "the primrose walk" and my next project begins but which one?